Acids For The Face: An Overview

Facial acids have different purposes and can be classified based on the components they contain and the specific properties attributed to them. Let’s find out an overview below.

Exfoliants

Exfoliating acids are effective formulations for improving skin texture, reducing acne, and minimizing dark spots. Please remember that it is necessary to rely on a professional to correctly use exfoliants: unsuitable molecules or excessive concentrations can cause even intense inflammation and skin damage. These acids, such as glycolic and salicylic acid, gently exfoliate the skin, eliminating dead cells and stimulating cell renewal.

1. Glycolic acid: Exfoliates the skin and reduces wrinkles and dark spots. It is to be used for dull skin or with signs of aging. Apply as a night treatment once or twice a week.
2. Salicylic acid: Penetrates pores and fights acne and blackheads. It is ideal for acne-prone skin or skin with clogged pores. Apply as a toner or gel, avoiding excessive use to prevent skin drying.
3. Lactic Acid: Gently exfoliates, improving the texture and appearance of the skin. Suitable for sensitive or dry skin. Use as a scrub or tonic, weekly or biweekly.
4. Mandelic acid: Exfoliates and renews the skin; it is also suitable for sensitive skin. Helpful in reducing acne marks. Use as a serum or night treatment two to three times a week.
5. Azelaic acid : Reduces hyperpigmentation and acne. Use for dark spots or acne-prone skin. Apply as a cream or gel once or twice daily, avoiding excess use to prevent skin drying.

Moisturizing And Nourishing

Hydrating acids, such as hyaluronic and linoleic acid, are essential for keeping skin hydrated and nourished. These acids help improve skin elasticity and protect the skin barrier, providing a radiant and healthy appearance.

1. Hyaluronic acid: Hydrates the skin, reduces wrinkles, and increases elasticity. Suitable for all skin types. Apply as a morning and evening serum or moisturizer.
2. Linoleic acid: Nourishes dry skin, maintaining the skin barrier. It is ideal for dry skin. Found in oils or moisturizers, apply daily.
3. Oleic acid: Nourishes dry skin, helping to retain moisture. Present in oils or creams to be applied as needed.
4. Liposomal mandelic acid: Promotes skin hydration, maintaining an optimal water balance. It is found in hydrating serums to be used regularly, preferably in the morning and evening.

Lightening And Uniforming

Brightening and evening-out acids, such as azelaic and tranexamic acids, reduce dark spots and even skin tone and improve hyperpigmentation. These acids aim to promote more even, glowing skin.

1. Kojic Acid: Whitens dark spots and evens skin tone. Useful for hyperpigmentation. Apply serum or cream twice a day.
2. Phytic acid: Reduces dark spots and promotes cell renewal. It is to be used for hyperpigmentation and formulated in creams or serums to be applied regularly.
3. Azelaic acid: Reduces hyperpigmentation, dark spots, and acne. It was formulated in creams or gels to be applied locally twice daily.
4. Tranexamic acid : Reduces hyperpigmentation and evens skin tone. Present in creams or serums for regular application.
5. 18-beta-glycyrrhetinic acid: Reduces discoloration and has soothing properties. It is found in creams or lotions to be used as a local treatment.

Antioxidants And Regenerators

Antioxidant acids, such as ferulic and triterpenoid acid, protect the skin from environmental damage and promote cell renewal.

These acids support the skin in fighting free radicals and maintaining a youthful appearance.

1. Ferulic acid: Protects the skin from environmental damage and increases the effectiveness of vitamins C and E. Present in antioxidant serums, preferably in the morning.
2. Triterpenoic acid: Calms and regenerates the skin. Suitable for sensitive or irritated skin. It was formulated in moisturizers or evening serums.
3. Triterpenoic acid: Promotes cell renewal and has calming properties. Suitable for sensitive or irritated skin. Present in evening creams or serums.
4. Ursolic acid: Protects the skin from damage and has regenerating properties. Present in antioxidant creams or anti-aging treatments.

Calming And Soothing

Calming and soothing acids, such as 18-beta-glycyrrhetinic and linoleic acids, are valuable for reducing irritation, managing sensitive skin and mild inflammation, and providing comfort and relief to stressed skin.

1. 18-beta-glycyrrhetinic acid: Reduces irritation and has anti-inflammatory properties. Suitable for sensitive or irritated skin. Present in creams or lotions to be used as a local treatment.
2. Linoleic acid: Nourishes and hydrates dry skin, reducing irritation. It is helpful for sensitive or dry skin. Present in oils or moisturizing creams to be used regularly.
3. Ursolic acid: Has regenerative and soothing properties, supporting skin health. Present in antioxidant creams or anti-aging treatments.
4. Triterpenic acid: Helps calm sensitive skin and reduces irritation. Use in creams or serums suitable for delicate skin.

Cellular Renewal And Skin Texture

1. Protective and stabilizing acids, such as azelaic and ferulic acids, are crucial in maintaining skin health. These acids protect the skin from environmental damage and improve the stability of other ingredients, such as vitamins C and E, enhancing their effectiveness in fighting free radicals.
2. Polylactic acid: Stimulates collagen production, improving skin firmness over time. They are often used in dermatological treatments such as injections or peelings to firm the skin and reduce wrinkles.
3. Mandelic acid polysaccharide: Contributes to the hydration and elasticity of the skin, suitable for dehydrated skin. Present in creams or serums for regular use to improve skin texture.
4. Pyruvic Acid: Gently exfoliates the skin, reducing the appearance of surface wrinkles and enhancing radiance. They are used in professional treatments or creams with controlled concentrations.
5. Azelaic acid: Promotes cell renewal and helps improve skin texture. Found in creams or gels, apply regularly to reduce hyperpigmentation and blemishes.
6. Tartaric acid has exfoliating properties and promotes skin smoothing, contributing to cell renewal. They are used in creams or weekly exfoliating treatments.

Protective And Stabilizing

Acids focused on cell renewal and texture improvement, such as polylactic and azelaic acid, are crucial to improving the appearance and texture of the skin. These acids stimulate collagen production, reduce wrinkles, and contribute to smoother, brighter skin.

1. Tranexamic acid: Reduces hyperpigmentation and helps stabilize melanin production. They are used in creams or serums as a targeted treatment.
2. Azelaic acid: Reduces acne and dark spots, stabilizing sebum production. They are used in creams or gels as a localized treatment.

Regulators Of Sebum Production

Sebum-regulating acids, such as dioic and salicylic acids, help control oil and manage acne by regulating sebum production. These acids help maintain skin balance on oily or combination skin. 

1. Dioic acid: Regulates sebum production and helps treat acne. Present in specific creams or lotions for localized use.
2. Salicylic acid: Exfoliates the skin, reducing inflammation and pimples. Use as a spot treatment in specific creams or lotions.

Read Also: Azelaic Acid: Benefits And Methods Of Use